Walking the Canals in Copenhagen

“Copenhagen is the coolest kid on the Nordic block. Edgier than Stockholm and worldlier than Oslo, the Danish capital gives Scandinavia the X factor,” the lonely planet claims and after experiencing it firsthand I have to agree. After a full day at sea on our cruise through the Baltic Sea, København, Denmark was our first port of call and I was amped for the adventure. We had two days in this modern yet classic capital finding excitement, beauty, and a touch of hippy love as we walked through the streets from the canals to Christianshavn.

“Tails” from Langelinie Park

Travel Tip >> If you’re on a cruise and didn’t pick up a Copenhagen travel map, simply follow the crowd and you’ll find your way to the first main attraction to kick off your explorations. Be one with the “sheeple” 

The Little Mermaid

It’s the basic principle of accepting being a sheeple, once you find your way to the first main stop there will be some resource or tour guide company begging for your business. In this case the first main stop was the iconic Little Mermaid statue, perched by on a smooth rock by the sea with the old shipping island of Refshaleøen behind her. If you’re coming from city center, it’s a bit far, but walking is never a true chore in cities like Copenhagen, especially when you’re too distracted by its colorful culture and architecture to worry about your feet. For as much hype as the statue has in tour books, it’s smaller than you might imagine once you reach her domain. I could still appreciate her spirit as I took a few shots, especially knowing that she recently celebrated her centennial year in the city representing the great Hans Christian Anderson, who wrote her classic story and lived many days of his life in Copenhagen. I always appreciated his talents in the classical nostalgic sense, but I recently found a new appreciation after discovering he wrote series of travelogues back in the mid 1800’s, including a visit to my beloved Spain in 1866. It’s incredible to think how many lives his works touched and to see one of his most famed fairy tales memorialized with such permanence was pretty special.

Memorial to Workers in Langelinie Park

As we trekked on we walked through Langelinie Park where there were towering sculptures sprinkled throughout the grounds, a playground, and a pier. Many of the artistic creations had angels atop, including a tall pillar with one waving gloriously toward the bay that stood as a proud tribute to sailors coming in and out of the channel. Another triangular sculpture with a winged goddess perched memorialized local workers and their life’s labor that they dedicated to the local economy, their families, and beyond. Down the park path we found a beautiful statue of Princess Marie of Orleans (1865 -1909) that stands tall with a mother and baby sitting at her feet. She was a French princess by birth and a Danish princess by marriage to her husband Prince Valdemar. Briefly learning about her legacy she seemed like a pretty amazing woman and although she never did learn the Danish language, she broke the mold of traditional women in court life by actively participating in political movements and is described as “impulsive, witty, and energetic” introducing a more relaxed style to the stiff royal lifestyle. Even in stone there is something regal about her presence and as a mother and child sit at the foot of her sculpture. Although I am indeed a proud American and believe in the foundations and purposes of democracy, moments like these remind you why little girls dreamed of being princesses one day and why monarchies tend to be almost romantic in our minds.

Steeples and Regals

Travel Tip >> Consider the Danish Royal Guards in the same regard as the iconic English Royal Guards. They are not allowed to talk to anyone like their fellow funny hatted friends, though if you’re lucky you may get a minor smirk. 

Gefion Fountain in front of the English Church

The walk through the park ended with a grand finale when we found ourselves staring down at the Gefion Fountain in front of a quaint old church. It was designed by Danish artist Anders Bundgaard near the turn of the 20th century and depicts the mythical story of the creation of the island Zealand on which the city was founded. There are three tiers with water flowing down to the bottom in short falls and the fountain sends arches of water along the edges that when standing at the bottom, seem to go as high as the steeple of the church. Like many fountains around the world, many use this one as a wishing well and although I didn’t throw a coin, I can imagine the high expectations for results for those who try as it is the largest monument in the city. My favorite part of it is that it was created to commemorate beer! It was donated to Copenhagen by the Carlsberg Foundation to celebrate the brewery’s 50th anniversary in the city. If the fountain flowed with beer I may have bowed to it!

The English Church

I say all this with the English Church, aka St. Alban’s church, standing in the background with its high steeple towering over overhead. The prominent religion in the country is Christianity, but similarly to the Church of England, the country has its own Church of Denmark. In comparison they are both of the Episcopal polity however the Church of Denmark is categorized as Lutheran in orientation. St. Alban’s Church is completely dedicated to England’s Anglican foundation and was built in the late 1800’s for the growing English population in Copenhagen. It is beautiful when reflecting off of the nearby Kastellet moat. It was designed by British architect Arthur Blomfield in the Gothic Revival style with its dark grey flint stone walls highlighting the white piping and window framing around the exterior. Once inside you can actually feel the silence and reference that was invested to create the soul of the structure, magnified by the contrasting sound your footsteps make when walking down the center isle on the wood floor. The extensive detailing of the carved altar seemed to brighten with the traditional stained glass windows streaming light in from behind. It was a sight my mother-in-law would be proud of as a Priest in the Episcopal faith with the perfect mix of beauty and spirituality.

Creating our own tour of the city, we walked on, and like most modern cities it was easy enough to navigate to the next main attraction – the Amalienborg Palace. It’s easy to recognize once you enter the massively wide open cobblestone square, with a large oxidized bronze statue of King Frederick V reaching to the sky in the middle of the space, and identical buildings all facing one another. Set perfectly on the waterfront, it is home to the Danish royal family complete with around-the-clock Royal Life Guards that strongly resemble the Queen’s Guard and Foot Guards in England. Although we did not stay for the ceremony we did see the Guards marching in commute to the palace the next day, we followed them as far as the rain and time would allow before ducking into a shop to let the water pass. The changing of the Guards ceremony that occurs daily at noon and by all accounts it’s a great display if you want to plan your day around the event. The guards also appear to have similar rules as their fellow fuzzy-hatted counterparts with little-to-no facial expressions allowed at all times. I snapped a single shot of my husband leaning in for a photo opp and it rightfully turned out as awkward as photobombing is meant to be.

Amalienborg Palace

I love how accessible cities in Europe are by foot. Each day we averaged 8-10 miles of just walking around and exploring the different cities and Copenhagen gained a gold star for pedestrian travel in my book. Walking along the canals I fell in love with the vibrant colors on the buildings even for a cloudy day they seemed to brighten up the sky. Although there are far less of them than in Amsterdam, they surpassed my expectations and some even beat out its neighboring port, including the stretch where my husband snapped the primary picture to this post.

From the Heavens to Hippies

Travel Tip >> Although it may be Bob Marley’s modern dream town complete with liberal trade of paraphernalia, for your own safety do not take pictures in Freetown Christiania. 

Church of Our Savior Denmark

On the opposing shore of the Kobenhavns Havn waterway in the Christianshavn district we found the Church of Our Saviour, clearly recognizable by its twisting gold trimmed helix spire pointing toward the heavens. Although we did not take a tour, it is available for those who do, instead we just marveled at how the design demanded attention of anyone in its radius. Visitors can walk all the way up and take in amazing views of the city. Despite its beauty and stature, ironically the church has its own urban legend that haunts ghost-seekers that states that the architect committed suicide by jumping off the top of the tower when he realized that the spiral staircase turns the wrong way. Another attraction of the church can be experienced if you have a romantic dinner at a nearby restaurant. Listen closely to hear the church sounding melodies every hour from 8 pm until midnight, not a bad soundtrack to an evening in Denmark I say.

Noma ranked as the Best Restaurant in the World by Restaurant magazine.

Speaking of restaurants, most foodies associate Copenhagen with the world renowned, two-Michelin-star restaurant Noma, led by chef Rene Redzepi. I became familiar with the award-winning spot when I fell into the PBS production of The Mind of a Chef. He was featured on a few episodes, one being when one of this best friends, chef David Chang, hangs out with him in Season 1 Episode 6 and explores his tactics and the local cuisine. We tried to make reservations and missed the mark but wandered that direction anyways to say we had at least seen it. There was a small domed greenhouse or similar structure behind the building where we guessed the restaurant grew or stored ingredients that may be used in the dishes. There were also a handful of contained bee nests where we assumed they farmed their own honey from, and although Noma is closed on Monday’s, its staff was buzzing around inside clearly setting up for some event either that evening or the next day. My brother and sister-in-law were able to make reservations shortly after our trip there and as foodies themselves, they assured us that it was well worth its ranking and price tag.

Peace and Love from Freetown Christiania

From white table cloths to picnic benches and homemade houses, it is amazing that just 10 minutes walking distance you can find yourself in Christiania, often referred to as the “city within a city.” It is a place where artists, families, musicians, students, and hippies all co-exist in community. When the community was established in the early 1970’s locals basically took over former military barracks so the buildings aren’t much to look at. In fact at first glance it looks like a run-down town under a bridge, decorated with colorful graffiti art, scrap metal sculptures, skate ramps, and residents from all walks of life. For some maybe that’s all it is. My husband for example wasn’t terribly impressed with the scene but was happy enough to indulge my curiosity. The grounds practically scream granola with people lounging in the gardens or the grassy hilltops while plumes of smoke rise from below. There are organic eateries and small pop-up shops lining the streets so take some time to wander and find your own place in the community.

Christiania is also home to the “Green Light District,” the cannabis cousin of Amsterdam’s “Red Light District.” If you walk through the community on your own or with your travel buddies, take special note of my travel tip here and tuck away your lens. Although “Don’t Panic it’s Organic” may be a mantra along this stretch of dusty pavement, it’s still illegal in Denmark so don’t give the nice hippies a reason to kick you out. Read and respect the rules that are posted at the entrances and although people watching is amazing, don’t be an ignorant idiot and stare at every strange thing or person that you pass. Be open-minded and enjoy the scene. There are guided tours provided by local residents if you feel more comfortable tagging along with others for an insider’s perspective. Check out fellow travel writer Tim Richard’s account from catching a tour through Christiania.

The European neighbourhood that declared independence @Aerohaveno https://t.co/qRCwoQWXzQ via @TravellerAU

— LindsayAmanda (@LindsayAmanda) July 27, 2016

Before traveling I did a little bit of research which is how I found Christiania in the first place. I found it incredibly interesting that you could not buy property in Christiania, instead if you want to live there you have to apply for the opportunity, then if approved your residence is gifted to you. For decades the neighborhood has been privy to self-government established by the Christiania Law of 1989, however as of 2013 the slow process of assimilation into normal Danish society is beginning to take place. Once fully absorbed, intended for business development purposes, it will be interesting to evaluate how the community will be effected. As with all things, only time will tell.

Recap: Top Things to do in Copenhagen

As with all experiences, it’s difficult to cover every detail in such a short time however I hope you gain a little insight from this Copenhagen travel log. The remainder of our time and the in-between stops were at local eateries, bars, and crepe carts all delicious spots in their own regard. Here’s a recap and top favs to check out on your next trip to Copenhagen:

Stops and Attractions

• The Little Mermaid  – A memorial to Hans Christian Anderson. FYI there are also a few more mermaids lurking about, try and find them while you’re exploring.
• Langelinie Park – Near the Little Mermaid, full of gardens, statues, a pier and a playground.
• Gefion Fountain – Make a wish, honor the old and the new, dedicated to the modern beer gods of Denmark
• St. Alban’s Church – Just a hop, skip, and a jump away from the fountain. Check out the charm of the English Church.
• Kastellet – Walk around one of the best preserved star fortresses in Northern Europe, complete with a traditional water-filled moat.
• Amalienborg Palace – The home of the Danish Royal Family, watch the changing the guards at noon daily.
• Church of Our Saviour – Take a walk up the twisted helix spire and listen to nightly chiming coming from the church.
• Christiania – Be one with the hippies, respect the rules and people, but enjoy the laid back atmosphere of this alternative community.

Foodie Finds

• Noma – Visit the world’s best restaurant. Reservations are tough to get and the price is there to prove it, but for the foodies out there it’s a challenge to conquer that’s for sure.
• Crepe Carts – From what I can recall, the quality is comparable to those near the Notre Dame. We enjoyed ours from a vendor in front of the English Church
• Chilimili – Our lunch stop with fresh, healthy, and simple food. Portions are extremely generous and inside is cute, welcoming, yet intimate for passing travel companions.
• Charlie’s Bar – A British Bar. We stopped here to grab a beer. It has a genuine local pub feel like somewhere in Oxfordshire and plenty of unique brews on tap.

More Travelogues?

Check out my previous posts Amsterdam Adventures: From Mainstream to Microbrewed and The Hague: The North Sea in South Holland. Thanks for reading and please share.

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